Sunday, August 9, 2015

Vintage pattern, vintage fabric: Simplicity 1278

Well, sort of! The pattern is a Simplicity vintage reprint from the 1950s; the blue floral fabric is "vintage," only if you call the 1980s or early 1990s "vintage." Some do, but since I was alive then, I don't! This pattern has been in my stash for quite some time but the neckline intimidated me so I put it off. I'm glad I finally tackled it because I really quite like it.

I had some leftover white rayon challis from my Owl Dress so I decided to use it up. I hadn't intended it to be a wearable "muslin," or first draft, but that's how it ended up. I had a few problems, nothing major. Not one Simplicity pattern that I've made so for (or other Big 4) has been too tight across the back and shoulders in a size 12. This one was, which is one reason why I ended up making a second version.

The other reason was I knew the white would be slightly thin but hoped against hope (foolishly, as I knew...I was just stubborn) that it would be better than it was. Unfortunately, it's only wearable with a cami underneath because the white is just too transparent. Also, can you see in the picture how the center has a thick white line up the front? That's the seam allowances showing through. Also, the darts show the same way.

Dots don't match up!
The neckline took a lot of work! Lots of details to be marked on the fabric, lots of matching, lots of pinning, lots of stages in sewing it up with the neckband. Totally worth it though! I did discover, I think, a marking issue on the pattern. When pinning one of the fold-over tabs, it instructs you to match two dots with two dots on the neckline. There is no way that happens. The neckline dots are spread farther apart than the pleated fold-over part. Do you see how the dots on the far right are never going to touch when the left dots nearly touch? When I made my second version I was extra careful marking and folding just in case it was "user error" on my rough draft. Nope! Not user error.
All in all, though, I did like the result enough to attempt another one right away. I had a little bit (maybe a yard? I didn't even bother checking) of some fabric I brought back from my mom's that was mine from junior high or early high school. I laid the pattern pieces out on it and almost had enough to get another one of these tops made. I was just short the fabric for the neck band pieces, which I'm glad about because I love the dark blue contrast.


I sewed 3/8" seam allowances everywhere it had been tight before, which helped. It's still a wee bit pully but not too bad. Isn't the blue one pretty?